Niacinamide or Vitamin C? Dermatologist Explains How to Pick the Right Skincare Ingredient

Choosing between niacinamide and vitamin C is less about finding a single better ingredient and more about matching the product to individual skin needs, according to a dermatologist consulted on the topic.

Dr Ritika Shanmugam, founder and chief dermatologist at her namesake skin and hair aesthetics practice, explained that niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, helps regulate oil production and strengthens the skin barrier. It also works by limiting melanin transfer, which can reduce the visible size of pores, calm redness, and support acne-prone or sensitive skin. It is considered flexible enough for both day and night use.

Vitamin C, on the other hand, functions primarily as an antioxidant that combats free radicals and blocks an enzyme involved in melanin production. This makes it a popular option for addressing pigmentation, dark spots, and uneven skin tone. It is also linked to collagen support, which is why it frequently appears in anti-ageing products. However, the dermatologist cautioned that it can cause irritation in sensitive skin and works best when paired with daytime sunscreen use.

According to the dermatologist, people prioritizing hydration, oil control, and pore appearance may lean toward niacinamide, while those focused on brightening and reducing signs of ageing may prefer vitamin C.

The two ingredients are not mutually exclusive and can be incorporated into the same routine, with niacinamide calming the skin while vitamin C addresses tone and provides antioxidant protection. Ultimately, the dermatologist emphasized that the decision should be based on skin type, tolerance, and specific concerns rather than viewing one ingredient as universally superior.